I found myself recently in Sacramento (that’s the capital of California, kids) for a job interview, and walking around town I noticed more than a few sushi places. Being an absolute sucker for raw-fish-on-rice, I decided to try one. I very nearly entered a posh, high-end looking place, but just then a group of kids walked by and were discussing how it wasn’t good. Were they experts? I don’t know, but it was the only sign I had, so I decided to look farther.
Walking past another place, I noticed a quartet of Japanese-looking twenty-somethings (who were also speaking Japanese) heading inside to eat. Again, I had no idea if they actually knew anything about sushi, but it seemed as good a recommendation as any. So I went in. Funnily, I ended up going again the next day, when the person interviewing me suggested we go there for dinner.
On my first (solo) visit to Mikuni, I sat at one of the four sushi bars on the first floor of the loft-style restaurant, with all kinds of shiny objects and flat-screen TVs adorning the walls to entertain me. The atmosphere was … a bit too much. The overly-trendy aspect is mostly par for the sushi course, but a few notable oddities struck me. First of all, both times I was there, the staff would yell some kind of chant, which may have been in English or may not have been, in response to some periodic clue. A bit annoying, but quickly ignored and maybe if I was clued in I’d think it was fun. Secondly, the chefs all wore jackets covered in corporate sponsor ads, looking like a bunch of NASCAR vehicles, only in black and white. I asked my server, who was lovely, about it and she said it was just their “thing,” and that the sponsors did things like pay for the flatscreen TVs. I have to say: if I wanted to see commercials, I’d stay home and watch TV there.
That the sushi chef who greeted me appeared to be about 17 was odd, but he was nice there didn’t seem to be mass death occurring in his other customers. I forwent the extensive list of fruity $10 cocktails and $5 flavored teas in favor of the complimentary green, which while brewed a bit too hot*, was fine. Miso soup – OK, though a bit heavy on tofu and with no nori – is also complimentary, but you have to ask for it.
For my dinner I ordered the chef’s selection chirashi. The presentation was gorgeous – much more architectural than I usually expect, with the slices of fish layered and grouped like a little castle on a hill of rice, not just strewn about. And, it was delicious. The salmon and tuna (maguro) were excellent – full of flavor and just the right texture. The tako was a sliced a bit too thick, and the snapper was a bit rubbery, but those were my only real complaints. Oh, and the tamago was very very good too. My dinner was under $20 (plus tip) for a good sized plate of good sushi, which I regard as not too expensive.
The next night, we sat at a table and again refrained from the cocktail menu (it was an interview, after all!). We decided to share a chef’s selection sushi mix, a chef’s selection sashimi mix, and, on our server’s recommendation, a Train Wreck roll. The latter is one of the trendy, over-flavored concoctions I usually avoid, but it turned out to be pretty tasty. It was essentially shrimp tempura wrapped in rice and nori topped with unagi and a ‘spicy’ sauce. You could not taste the shrimp, but the unagi did just beat out the sauce to be nice. On the sushi and sashimi side, the shrimp (ameabi) was sweet and delicious, the eel (unagi) very good, and the yellowtail awesome.
There is other Japanese food (tempura, salads, etc.) on the menu, but we didn’t try those. We also opted not to have dessert, the limited options for which were mochi ice cream or some sort of chocolate sundae business that sounded an odd way to follow sushi (or tempura).
All in all, I had two good meals at Mikuni, at not a bad price. The service was pretty good, and unless you’re easily bothered by loud noise (and décor), it’s a comfortable place to be. So, if you happen to be in Sacramento, and craving sushi, it’s a good bet.
Mikuni
1530 J St
Sacramento, CA 95814
(916) 447-2111
* Generally, green teas are best brewed around 80 degrees C (180 F), too hot and they don’t taste as fresh or clear. Sadly, almost every place you get green tea in the US just uses boiling water (100 C/212 F).