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November 30, 2006


Excellent El Paso

carnitas.jpgWhat makes for a good Mexican restaurant experience? My own criteria is hardly objective. If it's Salvadoran-influenced, I'll probably be a fan. If the dishes' only defining characteristics are excessive amounts of cheese, I'm disinterested. Salsa is more pureed than chunky and pico de gallo-esque. Corn tortillas (crispy or otherwise) trump flour offerings. Words like "barbacoa" and "carnitas" bring me joy – and I'm not talking about in a Chipotle setting.

This gives you an indication about my preferences (or prejudices). And while El Paso Café in Ballston would probably earn raves from any fan of Mexican food, I essentially like it because it fits my style. Plus, the cozy atmosphere and generous margaritas are another bonus.

The place makes a mean pupusa – arguably not up to the standard set by Samantha's in Silver Spring, but inarguably delicious, particularly the pork and cheese variety. If you're not a fan, their queso makes for a fine starter as well. Other offerings of deliciousness included the delectable lobster tacos (a special; loved the accent of avocado), and the carnitas, which while a little on the sweet side, were wonderfully savory.

Service was a little spotty (we had table bets going on whether our waitress had registered my desire for a beer in a boot-shaped glass that I saw at another table, or would honor my friend's request for water – she hadn't, in either case), and the awkwardly placed bar with no stools in the middle of the restaurant doesn't make for a comfortable situation when you're waiting for a table. But when you're picky about Mexican food and find a spot you like, you tend to overlook these tangential qualms. El Paso Café is worth a shot.

Plus, they have strolling mariachis. What more do you need?

El Paso Cafe
4235 N Pershing Dr
Arlington, VA 22203-3202

Posted by mjf at November 30, 2006 2:38 PM

 

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Comments

Seriously, "Salvadoran influenced" Mexican is not Mexican. There is a significant difference. Try a taqueria on Kenilworth Ave. or Los Cabos in College park. That's Mexican.

Posted by: Jason at December 1, 2006 1:13 PM

Taqueria Distrito Federal in the Disctict is also not Salvadorean influenced and is good...but fans of Taqueria El Charrito Caminante in Arlington know that Salvadorean influenced Mexican can be good.

I do need to try El Paso.

Posted by: Jason at December 4, 2006 8:03 AM

 

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November 30, 2006