This mansion in Detroit costs less than a studio in Arlington.
In terms of unlikely fun vacation getaways, Detroit would rank somewhere between Kandahar and Damascus (either Syria’s or Maryland’s), yet that was my recent destination. Not really known for sandy beaches, exotic culture or safety, Detroit is nothing like Dewey Beach, the usual weekend getaway for D.C.’s younger set. Which, quite frankly, was a strong selling point of a weekend in the Motor City.
To confront the 800 pound gorilla in the room – yes, Detroit is a decimated city. There is simply no way to avoid the subject nor the scores of deserted, damaged structures around the city. Such things happen when a city loses more than 50% of its population. The post-World War I building boom made thousands of grand structures, from massive factories to stately mansions to glorious Art Deco skyscrapers, and the city’s industrial might led directly to Allied success in World War II. However, that largess and single-minded devotion to a single industry has led directly to a 5 decade-long decline; as factories modernized and competition increased, Detroit’s well-paid labor tax base became an unemployable albatross. City leaders, the Big Three, the unions, organizations, schools – all believed that an industrial revival was right around the corner, and they have held to that delusion through nearly 50 years of population drain and societal decay. If Cleveland, Buffalo and Youngstown are all part of the Rust Belt, then Detroit is like a big box Rust Clothing Store.
But this is not a socioeconomic blog nor yet-another photo essay proclaiming to show beauty in Detroit’s ruin. If you want that, do a google search on “Detroit abandonment porn” and knock your socks off. Hit up Zillow.com and count how many houses and lots you can buy with the money in your pocket. This is about food, and, that is something Detroit still does, and does it well, affordably, and with a smile. See, while urban explorers can go through the hulking ruins of the old Packard plant or economists can look at GM’s 3Q profit reports and declare “Detroit’s dead,” there are plenty of friendly folks in the food and service industries who would think otherwise. The downtown core, filled with many sterling pieces of Art-Deco architecture, is rebuilding itself into a more destination-based locale, replete with glittering casinos, shining hotels, spectacular sports stadia, grand boulevards and a wide range of restaurants. It’s not completely restored, but the transformation is very reminiscent of Baltimore’s Inner Harbor 30 years ago, or D.C.’s recent attempts to redevelop SW near the baseball stadium.
Detroiters know their city has been written off nationally, but that doesn’t stop them from trying or frying. Many believe the future of their city lies in food, either through urban farms or in destination dining. The most famous of these societally-aware restaurants in Detroit may well be Slow’s BBQ, located across the street from the looming Michigan Rail Depot. You may have seen the place featured on Man vs. Food, or on Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations, but it was the article in the NYTimes last year that really drove home the point that eating consciously isn’t just about sustainable fishing or locally-raised produce, but in trying to make a difference in a neighborhood. Or, a city.
As for the food – holy bloody hell that is some good damned barbecue. It’s not as good as maybe the top five places in Austin or Kansas City or Memphis, but it wouldn’t be too far behind. Even on a late Sunday night, the brisket was still juicy, and the house-made barbecue sauces were amazing. It had possibly the best mac-and-cheese I’ve ever had, a beer and drink menu featuring various hard-to-find brews and small-batch bourbons; and when combined with a commitment to a city that truly needs it, Slow’s is well worth yet-another article heaping praise. In a city with too many chili dog joints, abandoned buildings, and unemployment, having a bite of barbecue that could transport the eater to a different place is a wondrous thing.
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Slows’ BBQ earned 9 out of 10 Whammies! for having legitimately good food, even after glowing Food Network and Travel Channel and New York Times’ stories, so that was impressive. The service was very solid, the sauces would sell well on any supermarket shelf, and the beer selection was “Churchkey-esque.” The people who shared the bar with us were friendly and warm, which we found to be quite common in our Detroit eating adventure. The only negative Whammy is due to the fact that Detroit, as much as I like the city, is such a shockingly-decrepit place. I have had nightmares – like, cold-sweat-heavy-breathing-holy-hell-I’m-gonna-die nightmares straight out of a bad TV show – about being trapped in decaying houses and with no way out. Not to get too political,but this DC and no way around it – Detroit needs a stimulus package.
-RAY
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