Nightmare fuel for people with gephyrophobia
Good local sandwich shops are always a good find, no matter the town or the speciality. The supreme leaders of sandwich making take on a certain mythology; tales of legendary sauces on hearty breads with melty cheesesare more “HBO series” than a humble foodstuff. And people will pass on sandwich shop recommendations like a good accountant knows tax breaks. “If you’re on the way to Ocean City and need a good sub, there’s Red Door in Salisbury.” “I got lost in Delaware trying to save money on sales tax, but found Ioannoni’s in New Castle.” Our surrounding cities have some quality choices. Ever wonder what happened to America’s once-great steel industry? There’s usually a Primanti Brothers close by in the Pittsburgh area. Baltimore’s got cheesesteaks the size of your car at Captain Harvey’s, but Chap’s Pit Beef is the place for some hot meat/bread love….though Attman’s Deli does a pretty mean corned beef. There are Annapolitans who still bemoan the loss of The Crate Cafe almost 20 years ago, known for sandwiches so tall, customers needed stepstools to eat. New York’s a sandwich-eatin’ town, and if you get lost somewhere between Tribeca and Avenue Q, Sunny and Annie’s in New York’s Alphabet City can hold its own with any of the city’s legendary sandwich places. I mean, come on, a pho sandwich?? That could make a vegan switch camps, even if only for a day.
Note – Philadelphia is pretty much one great big sandwich shop, so it’s difficult to pick just one standard-bearer. Let’s just say it’s a magical place called GENOJIMPATCARMENSCHICKESJOHNSFINKSSONNYSREADINGTERMINALNOMNOMNOM, but that’s just the short name.
D.C. folks can have a spirited debate between old standbys like Jetties or CF Folks or brash newcomers like Taylor Gourmet and SUNdeVICH. And, there’s a vocal group who will rightfully fight you over any foul words aimed at Arlington’s Earl’s or The Italian Store.
What’s the key to making a legendary sandwich shop? Is it the quality of the meats used? Local ingredients to make the spreads? The bread surely must have something to do with it, but there are far too many variables to try to crack the Successful Sandwich Store Equation. Get that dude from “A Beautiful Mind” and a young Matt Damon working on the math, and they may never crack the code. So, what’s the secret?
Potatoes.
At least, that’s what my taste buds tell me as I head to Frederick’s a.k.a. Friscos for a well-made sandwich and one of their hot starchy delights – which sounds much dirtier than I’d like it to sound… The original Friscos used to be located near Sidwell Friends and WUSA on Wisconsin Avenue back in the 1990s, and had quite the reputation as a solid place to go for a school lunch snack or a pre-broadcasting internship cheap meal. The second, now-only, Friscos opened up in Frederick in 1997 in a much larger space. More room for diners, more room to cook, this rare wonderful thing called “parking.” The DC Friscos closed in 2001, and fifteen Starbucks opened up in that former Friscos spot.*
* = slight exaggeration. The more accurate number is seven.
The Frederick Friscos may not get the pub of Fred’s more famous dining options, like Volt, The Tasting Room or Firestone’s – who proudly proclaims being voted the 2nd best restaurant in Frederick! – but Friscos’ fans are a loud voting bunch. Voted #2 in Frederick by TripAdvisor (ahead of Volt!) and currently #8 on Yelp!, though rising Mediterranean newcomer Ayse might be throwing off the voting a bit.
Still, Friscos’ is more than just a good sandwich shop. The Exploded Potatoes – the house’s version of a warm, smoky potato salad – are often offered up to customers as a free sample as they enter, a nice touch while they read the large San Francisco-themed menu. Nods to the Presidio, the Golden Gate, Haight Ashbury are to be expected; the Russian Hill and BART references were appreciated. Beyond the fun names, though, resides some serious chow. Fresh avocado, melted brie and Bermuda onions adorn the menu, along with Virginia ham and flat iron steaks make sure meat-eaters and veggie-vores are both sated. To go with your sandwich, soup, salad or spud, they offer an assortment of soft drinks, including Frederick’s own McCutcheon sodas.
And, if you just feel like a beer, well, they have a wine and beer shop on premises, so, they usually have something that will impress the snobbiest of beer snobs.
The decor is a bizarre mix of Jimmy Buffett attitude and corporate park architecture. 1789 it ain’t. But that’s part of it’s charm. Maybe if Friscos had stayed in DC, it might have tried to be hipper, or trendier, or went crazy into the “foam” craze. Instead, it is what is was during the Clinton Administration – a good place to get an affordable, hearty meal. Just…40 miles more north than it used to be.
– RAY
