After another Thanksgiving, I thought I’d ease everyone back into the daily grind with something unusual for this web site: a culinary op-ed of sorts. Recently, the people in charge of New York City have begun a debate on whether or not to ban trans-fatty acids in restaurants. In order to understand the implications of this, it is necessary to know a little bit about what trans-fatty acids are, and why officials would want to ban them.
Normally, fat comes in four types: saturated, polyunsaturated, monounsaturated, and trans fatty acids. Saturated fat (such as butter, coconut oil, and palm kernel oil) is solid at room temperature, and is generally quite bad for you, in that it has been shown to be correlated with heart disease. Unsaturated fats are liquid at room temperature (olive, canola, soybean, corn, and vegetable oils), and while still bad for you, are less bad than saturated fats (although the fat content in your diet should come from unsaturated fats as much as possible).
The trouble is that all the flavour and goodness in various recipes comes from saturated fat. Some enterprising companies have discovered that if they add Hydrogen to an unsaturated fat like vegetable oil, it takes on properties that make it behave like a saturated fat (in terms of taste, texture, and body). These hydrogenated or partially-hydrogenated oils (which are sold as margarine, vegetable “spreads,” oleos, and shortening) are also called trans-fatty acids (or TFA for short).
Recently, authorities have become concerned because of a link between TFA’s and a number of health problems. TFA’s have been shown to raise the level of LDL (“bad”) cholesterol, while lowering the level of HDL (“good”) cholesterol, which leads to an increased risk for heart attack and stroke. Also, there seems to be a correlation between TFA consumption and obesity levels. The federal government, which is in an excellent position to enforce such a ban nationwide, has been silent on this matter, so some municipalities have started to take matters into their own hands. New York City, as the first major city to consider this, is being watched very carefully. Fast-food restaurant chains such as McDonald’s, Burger King, and Wendy’s, worried about potential drops in profit margins, have already (supposedly) started investigating alternatives for their fried foods.The proposed ban would only encompass restaurants. People would still be able to purchase margarine, shortening, etc. for home use.
As a professional chef, I am opposed to this sort of regulation for two reasons. First is because it’s badly written legislation that unfairly targets restaurants. Only restaurants would be subject to a ban on ingredients that are otherwise perfectly legal to use. Restaurants generally use a shortening in their deep fryers because it’s cheaper to use, and it doesn’t have to be changed as often as oil (and believe me, changing the oil in a commercial deep-fryer is not trivial). As such, the practical implication of this ban would be to quadruple the cost of anything fried.
The second reason I am opposed to this ban is because I really believe that it is not for a government to regulate what I eat. I am an adult, and I should decide what level of risk I’m comfortable with. I understand that there is a large amount of obesity in our society, but at the end of the day, people are responsible for their own diets, and for their level of activity (or lack thereof). What will happen if this ban comes to pass is that restaurants will most likely revert to using saturated fats such as butter, which is why the American Heart Association does not support the ban as it is currently written.
This sort of regulation first started in the late 1970’s when officials were concerned about Peking duck (which requires that the duck is hung to dry for half a day). It then moved to artisanal sausages and salumerias, and now to TFA’s. As a result, a lot of old-style artisan work is being lost. I admire the New York City government’s intentions, however the practical implications would be to shield people from one danger, while exposing people to another. Where does this end? If they come after Five Guys next, then my friends, the terrorists have truly won.
Got an opinion? Post a comment, or send an e-mail to dcfud.writers@gmail.com. For more information on TFA’s and their health implications, check out the American Heart Association’s web site.
-
27Nov
6 Responses
Out Of The Deep-Fryer & Into The Frying Pan
After another Thanksgiving, I thought I’d ease everyone back into the daily grind with something unusual for this web site: a culinary op-ed of sorts. Recently, the people in charge of New York City have begun a debate on whether…
Re: which fats are bad for you, check out Nina Planck’s book, Real Food. She busts some myths about butter and palm oils by examining the accepted research, highlighting alternative research, and tracing corporate interests. Of course mice get high cholesterol when you feed them butter; their bodies are not designed to manage butter. Who knows if her statements are any more valid, but it’s worth looking at another point of view.
I’m pretty sure that since Five Guys deep fat fries everything in peanut oils, there are no trans-fats. So you’re safe.
Just real quick though, it’s not up to the government to regulate what you eat, but it is up to them to pay for your triple-bypass when you don’t or can’t afford healthcare? You can’t have both.
Well, at the moment, the government would not be paying for my triple bypass because 1) I have my own insurance plan through my job, and 2) because I generally tend to watch what I eat.
I am completely fine with the government imposing a tariff of sorts on those oils that are used, thereby passing on the full cost of the ensuing health care to those people that choose to eat that food (sort of like increasing the tax on a pack of cigarettes). An outright ban, however just seems a bit much. Where will it end?
As for the saturated fats, there is some controversy because the measure for “saturated fats” before INCLUDED trans fats, so they don’t really know whether or not the link to heart disease is caused by saturated fat, or by trans fat. A new study is necessary.
However, fat is fat. You still need to watch how much you eat (some is necessary for a balanced diet).
I can’t stand it when governments try to limit what I can and cannot eat. Unpasteurised cheeses, fois gras, and things fried in oil.. the government shouldn’t limit these things. Sure, they might not be as healthy or good for you, but that’s life. I can drink to excess and damnit, I want to risk harm to my body by having something deep fried every once in a while.