By Andrew Kohn
Right now in my garden, along with the bird feeders and strawberries, I’m growing ‘Caseknife’ Beans, Long Red Cayenne Peppers, and Balsam Apples. What’d these three plants have in common you ask? Surprise, they were all cultivated by Thomas Jefferson. This past weekend I visited Monticello and, for the first time, truly appreciated the horticultural talents of our 3rd President. In his gardens he cultivated numerous species of fruits and vegetables, giving us so much we can even overlook his weak attempts at grape cultivation! Although, somebody in Virginia has successfully figured out the equation – as evidenced by the fabulous Petit Verdot I imbibed on the trip.
(By the by, I dined at Fossett’s Restaurant located at Keswick Hall near Charlottesville and had a scrumptious “re-invented” summer salad with tomato foam, basil jelly, and homemade cheese. Molecular gastronomy that even rich old people will eat! The duck was delicious although predictable and the pork was well done. Avoid the oyster and sweetbread stew – too many textures on top of too many flavors.)
I digress, however…back to my veggies. The peppers were first planted by Mr. Jefferson in 1767; the beans in the 1820s; and the Balsam Apple (an unusual vine) was planted in 1812 and adorned the walkways of Monticello. I write about these plants not to suggest you run out and buy them, but instead to think about the history of those tomatoes and herbs we’re all planning on growing this season. Heirloom vegetables deserve a place in our gardens. My beans are one of the oldest documented varieties used in American gardens. This is exciting! On July 4th, I’m looking forward to chomping down on my colonial beans while reading the Declaration of Independence – both of which I should thank Thomas Jefferson for providing to me.