• 09May

    Meats Port City Beer mixed with cheese to create an American Fondue French inspired Raclette Staff preparing fondue

    One of the great staples in life is cheese; it can go from the standard party fare (think cubes of cheese on toothpicks) to the divine (think anything Italian, gooey and aged). When talking cheese, Europeans have taught us all we know; they are masters at producing all manner of dairy-based delights. On March 30th, Via Umbria played host to a most wonderful event, celebrating another wonderful Swiss dish, fondue.

    A place to enjoy all things Italy right in the middle of Georgetown, Via Umbria brought together cheese lovers to taste their way around Europe and America.  The Melt Fondue Fest was created to show off some of the best international and local cheeses in the form of fondue. Upon arrival, guests were given a passport to visit five different cheese stations.

    Curated by in-house cheese monger, Alice Phillips, the evening included a formal nod to the home of fondue, with an Alpine Fondue which contained traditional Swiss melted cheese, garlic and wine. Waving the local flag, the American Fondue stall showcased a tangy cheesy dip made with dark beer. Heading back over the pond, the French inspired Raclette came scraped over boiled potatoes. The final stall featured Wisconsin Fried cheese, which was made from fresh cheese curds that had been dipped in beer batter and then golden-fried. These cheese selections were accompanied by paired wines and beers; guests all left feeling satisfied to the hilt.

    All cheeses can be purchased in the delicatessen along with accompaniments, so you can have out your own fondue night at home.

    -EWL

  • 12Nov

    Monday evening I had the pleasure of attending Chile’s Chef Competition at the National Restaurant Association Headquarters. Chefs had fresh and beautiful Chilean ingredients to choose from for their dishes. The three salmon dishes and the mussels really made an impression on me — Chilean seafood is exquisite.

    We also got to try some great cocktails and some of Chile’s exceptional wines. I never turn down a Chilean event because I always want to sample more Chilean wines.

    I know, you are all about knowing who won. The winners were:
    Judge’s Choice
    Hank’s Oyster Bar: cocktails
    Food Del Campo: food

     

    People’s Choice
    Food: Cafe du Parc
    Cocktail: Bar Pilar

    -JAY

    Editor’s Note: You can click twice on the above images to make them larger.

  • 04Nov

    Nadine Khalaf Aldridge

    Nadine Khalaf Aldridge is worth getting to know.

    She’s a bright, charming, generous foodie who plates damned sexy food.  It’s tempting to shorten this bio and let her work speak for itself, because it’s that good.   “Go forth, fellow foodies, and admire her gorgeous creations on Instagram or on Facebook, or her cookbook-worthy recipes at foodienada.com.  Peace out, we’re done here.”

    But if you enjoy her work as much as I do, you might be curious about her personality, journey, or inspirations.  I had the privilege of spending over an hour with her on the phone and came away smiling, thinking, “Gosh, I’d like to be friends with her.  It’s like we’ve always known each other.”  She’s engaging, genuine, down to earth, and fun.  When she’s not at home making culinary magic, she’s at work as a communication and marketing analyst.  Her education wasn’t in the culinary arts, though.  It was in biology and chemistry in undergrad, and then French literature for her master’s.

    I wondered how her degrees influenced her food blog.  Perhaps her writing is better because of the French lit, but I get the feeling it’s her personal qualities that have had the biggest impact.  She was born in Achrafieh, Lebanon and grew up during the civil war there.  She wanted to help by becoming a soldier or a doctor, so it’s no surprise that when we fast-forward to when she started instagraming her beautiful food and her followers asked a couple times a week, “how did you make this?!”, that underlying caring quality expressed itself again: she wanted to help, so she volunteered her recipes.

    She’s a giver.  I love givers.

    Shrimp Salad

    Shrimp Salad

    We should thank Nadine’s parents for raising this giving, wonderful daughter, but can we credit them with inspiring her to cook, too?  I think so.  When her mother was bedridden, eight-year-old Nadine would make her dad salad, potatoes, and steak in a pan.  Seeing his reactions made her want to learn how to be a good housewife/cook who could take care of her family.  She would continue to take instruction and learn from mom.

    At twelve years old, her family immigrated to Virginia, then moved to San Diego, and finally settled in the great state of Texas.  Nadine’s favorite part of the state is Dallas because it’s full of national and international transplants.  There’s enough diversity and academia there to keep it interesting.  Did her cuisine yearn to be Texan too?  After reflecting, she says no; her mom and her Lebanese upbringing were the biggest influences, along with trips to Europe and France in particular, where she refined her palate.  California’s style of cooking—using tons of fresh produce—was also crucial.

    Being a huge fan of Alton Brown and Jacques Pépin, I had to ask Nadine who her favorite celebrity chefs were.  It turns out we both love Mr. Pépin.  Also on her list are Mario Batali, Michael Symon who’s very talented, Ina Garten who never went to culinary school, and Joël Robuchon, who’s an amazing French chef.  When asked “why Joël?”, Nadine’s reply: “I would love to eat at one of his restaurants.  His mashed potato is equal parts butter and potato; you just want to swim in it!”  Her favorite kind of cooking show is one where they’re cooking something complex or difficult, not just peeling carrots.  I apologize to all the expert carrot peelers for our lack of appreciation of your skills.  There’s irony here, because—and I’m blushing/giggling/shaking-my-head as I admit this—I actually enjoy peeling carrots quickly and perfectly, with minimal waste.

    At this point, we’re beginning to understand Nadine, the person: what she values; what she likes.  What about the story behind the blog?  How did she go from posting photos on Instagram to having an elegant presentation of the underlying recipes?  At first, with around 15 followers, it wasn’t hard to share recipes.  As the number grew (today at over 2000), more people asked for them and retyping became difficult.  It was also hard to share when she’d never really measured the ingredients.  The natural next step was: be deliberate about documenting the recipe (and measuring!) and centralize the result in a blog.  But she didn’t stop there.

    foodienada_eggs

    Breakfast

    foodienada_potatoes

    Roasted Potatoes

    foodienada_tarts

    Cheese Tarts

    She did extensive research about blogs and about photography.  Hints like, “take photos in natural sunlight,” and details about blog layout and how to best convey her passion.  And that’s what it became: a passion.  In her words, “sharing something I love with someone else, whether I know them or not.”  But it’s still more than that.  Eventually, when she has hundreds of recipes, she’d like to leave it to her daughter as a keepsake.  May the d’awwing commence.  She reminded me of Randy Pausch’s Last Lecture which is similarly inspiring.

    After hearing about all this cooking and blogging, my thoughts went to the only place they could go: who eats all that gorgeous food?

    Most of the posts are made for brunches of about 10-12 people.  A small number are for occasional things like Father’s Day or her husband’s birthday and about a third are done on the weekends, when she cooks for her family and has time for the extra effort of measuring.

    She has a few go-to ingredients, starting with the simplest (yet one of the hardest to measure, because it gets added gradually): salt. She uses extra virgin olive oil for pretty much everything (even Tex-Mex!), lemon juice/zest, fresh herbs as often as possible, and organic tomato paste, which is one of the few things she’ll buy jarred.  Her absolute favorite ingredient to use on potatoes or French fries is Piment d’Espelette.  It’s like a sweet pepper, but a little spicy.  Mostly delicate.  I can’t wait to try it.

    Flank SteakOne of her favorite things to make is flank steak.  I’m drooling at her photo even though I’ve never tasted her cooking because her plating is so exceptional.  She can’t possibly cook all these amazing things for every meal though, right?  So I asked her what she cooks most often, day-to-day.  “It’s a lot more Lebanese food than anything else.  More Mediterranean.  Tabbouleh maybe 3-4 times a week, hummus a few times a week, salads for dinner, lots of stews.”  On the weekends is when she goes all out.  And this is a working mom, remember.  Respect.

    I had to put my admiration aside to ask what she’s planning for the future.  In the short term, she wants to learn more about how to make the blog look better.  She’s not ashamed of the work she’s done—she did it all herself—but, for example, she wishes she’d taken photos in better lighting.  She might want to learn more about the technical details of blogging, including HTML/CSS, how to market it, and this whole “trendy social media thing” (my words, not hers).  Longer term, she dreams of going to a farmer’s market, making something, inviting friends or strangers over for taste testing, then writing cookbooks.  Maybe full time.  Maybe sneak off to culinary school too.  How cool would that be?!  I kind of want to ask Gordon Ramsay for help.  Let’s make an episode with Nadine for one of his shows and dedicate it to plating.  Best food porn wins.

    I feel fortunate to have met Nadine.  She invited me to dine with her someday, and I look forward to that day gleefully (flank steak, I’m looking at you).  My only regret about this interview is that I didn’t ask her husband for any juicy tidbits that she “forgot” to mention.  Like maybe a secret love of eating plain mayonnaise out of the jar at 3AM while watching Married With Children reruns.  There’s still time.  I’ll call him as soon as I can.  In the meantime, I hope you enjoyed reading about Nadine as much as I enjoyed interviewing her.

    —Mark Feghali (MFF)

  • 23Aug

    As sometimes happens, I was unable to stop myself. I didn’t need ground meat of any kind – I’m more of a whole-animal-parts guy – but it was there. Ground venison. I had to. The problem being, of course, that there’s no way I’m wasting that in a burger or ragu or whatever that’s going to totally just treat it like any other unidentifiable ground critter.

    Googling around, I came across this recipe for Korean style ground venison that looked like a nice way to get the needed fat and salt into the meat but also let its essential woodsy-ness come though. Also unable to help myself, I made a few adjustments.

    I used:20150817_193728

    1 pound ground venison
    2″ fresh ginger
    4 cloves garlic
    1″ fresh tumeric root plus an extra couple slices for later
    2 squeezes of raw agave nectar
    1/4 c low-sodium soy sauce mixed in 1/4 c water
    About 6 grams of coconut oil (maybe 1/2 tsp?)

    (Other stuff I’ll explain in a second…)

    1/2 a sweet onion
    1 jalapeno (diced)
    1/2 lb shitakes (clean and slice to taste)
    3-4 scallions (just the greens)

    Slice the onion and start it slowly caramelizing.

    Puree the ginger, garlic, and tumeric in a blender (except the extra slices). Brown the meat, add the spice mix, agave, and soy water. When the meat is almost cooked, add the ‘extra’ tumeric, finely diced. When all done, careful not to overcook, remove it to a bowl with a slotted spoon or mesh strainer.

    Now, your onions should be nice and caramelized. Add them, the mushrooms, and the jalapeno. Sautee that until done (just a few minutes), and remove with your slotted spoon to a serving plate. Plate the meat with the mushrooms (I did side-by-side, as you can see), and then jack up the heat under the remaining juices to create a glaze. Pour the glaze over both sides of the dish, and serve, topped with sliced scallion greens.

    It’s also low-carb and gluten-free and all that if you’re neurotic, but I ate the leftover meat with forbidden rice, and it was awesome too.

    Enjoy!!

    -MAW

  • 02Aug
    John Shields & Wildfire's Chef Moreno Attack a Pile of Blue Crabs!

    John Shields & Wildfire’s Chef Moreno Attack a Pile of Blue Crabs!

    Wildfire in Tysons has pulled off another great crab dinner with Chesapeake cuisine authority, John Shields. John’s restaurant in Gertrude’s in the Baltimore Art Museum, and his PBS show is Coastal Cooking. He is even about to re-release Chesapeake Bay Cooking in October (September for advance copies). John showed us how to properly break a blue crab down.

    There was even some discussion of whether Chesapeake crabs are actually Maryland or Virginia crabs since this Washington Post article had just been published.

    Here is the 1st Course Recipe: Grilled Avocado & Bluefin Crab Salad.

    Here is the 1st Course Recipe: Grilled Avocado & Bluefin Crab Salad.

    This was my first experience drinking Three Notch’d (Charlottesville, VA) beer. We sampled their Pilsner (Of, By, For), 40 Mile IPA (which is really well balanced), Gray Ghost American Pale Ale, and award-winning Hydraulion Irish Red. The Three Notch’d brews were all excellent (and named after Charlottesville history).

    This article contains video we took of John breaking down a crab at a previous Wildfire crab (and cocktails instead of beer) dinner:

    Wildfire is quite skilled at creating and executing beer dinners in partnership with wonderful breweries. This crab dinner was excellent, but so was June’s Lagunitas dinner.

    -JAY

    Click to add a blog post for Wildfire on Zomato

  • 29Jul

    Let’s rewind ten or fifteen years ago to my Quest for the perfect brie.  The Quest wasn’t for a blog article; it was because I loved food.  I purchased various brands from Costco, Trader Joes, and Whole Foods until I found the most delicious cheese on earth: a double-creme brie called Fromager d’Affinois. I’ve been gushing about it to my friends ever since.

    Rays of sunshine stream through the clouds

    The heavens agree: Saint Angel brie is a good choice

    So when dcfud asked me to review cheeses from Fromagerie Guilloteau, the family owned business that makes my all-time favorite cheese, you can imagine how much I bounced off the walls with excitement.  They let me try two different cheeses for free, and I loved their triple-creme brie so much that I couldn’t resist buying some for my parents when I visited them that weekend.  On my way back from Whole Foods—cheese in hand—I kept giggling because never before had the heavens parted as if to say, “excellent choice, Mark.” When I stopped at a red light, I had to capture the moment.  My parents loved it.

    Here’s the story behind this review.  On my way to work, I stopped at Murray’s in Grand Central Station in New York City.  As a purveyor of fine cheeses I thought they’d have a better selection than Whole Foods, who I already knew carried Fromager d’Affinois.  Luck was not with me that day, because d’Affinois was all Murray’s had.  Given my adoration for that cheese, I couldn’t just review it myself and toss journalistic integrity to the wind.  “But wait a second,” I thought.  “I have coworkers.”  Problem solved.

    A pound of double-creme brie

    A pound of double-creme brie

    Welcome to my office, toasted crackers and a pound of double-creme brie.  Don’t mind the lustful gazes from my colleagues.

     

     

     

    Later, as the brie was being demolished, here’s what everyone had to say:

    “I am not a brie expert, but I find it delicious”

    “It’s a good one. Not too strong. Not harsh. I like the crust actually.”

    “Very creamy. You can tell the difference between cheap brie and good brie. You can tell it’s not a cheap one. After a second helping I would say it’s not just creamy, it’s buttery.”  (she informed me that if she came back for thirds, I was to send her away)

    “Yeah, it’s double creme. A little nutty.”

    The guy with the most sophisticated palate—a Frenchman, as it happens—had the most critical feedback: “It’s good.  It’s definitely not a triple creme brie, but it’s good.”

    Not a triple-creme?  What is this heresy about my favorite cheese sullying my virgin ears!  This was the smoothest, sweetest, creamiest brie I’d ever had, and he dared scorn it as “just a double creme?”  The rind (white crust) on many bries is bitter or too strongly flavored.  Not Fromager d’Affinois.  It has a delicate flavor that will hook any cheese lover.  And it was being challenged.

    I did the only thing I could do.  After work, I went to Whole Foods and found Saint Angel, a triple-creme brie from Fromagerie Guilloteau.  Could I really tell the difference?  Is a triple-creme that much better?

    An hour later, I found myself in a molten puddle of cheesy ecstasy.  I’m dairy intolerant, but I ate it anyway.  It was worth it.

    Triple creme brie Saint Angel

    Stock photo (and it’s gorgeous) of the triple creme brie Saint Angel

    From the first nibble, I couldn’t believe how silky and smooth Saint Angel is.  The mouth-feel was so good that I ate it plain.  This cheese is so decadently buttery that I wish I’d known about it as a kid.  Back then, I used to saturate my corn on the cob with fresh slabs of salted butter.  Broccoli got the same treatment because butter is delicious.  Saint Angel would have been a perfect addition.  A purist would kill me for saying this, but it’d be good with spicy chicken wings, too.  Dear purists: marry this brie to your favorite French baguette.  You’ll love it too.

    Where does this leave us?  It leaves me with a new favorite brie and several variations of Fromager d’Affinois to tease me:

    • Garlic and mixed herbs
    • Truffle (I’m told this is especially good)
    • Pepper
    • Florette (made from 100% goat’s milk)
    • Brebicet (made from 100% sheep’s milk)
    • Campagnier (rind tinted with annatto and promises of subtle fruity flavors)
    • Bleu (or Saint Géric, which is the triple-creme version of this bleu cheese)

    What about you?  Care to join me? 🙂

    –Mark Feghali (MFF)

  • 27Jun

    Being a junkie for greens runs in my family, and my mother’s new garden plot has been churning out prodigious quantities this year – lacinato kale and rainbow chard, particularly. However, one thing that she does that drives me bonkers is that she trims and only eats the leafy bits – she wastes those lovely crunchy stems (ditto with beets, radishes and carrots – she never uses the greens)!! I’ve taken tons home from family dinners to use myself. I usually crisp-fry them or just add to other greens I’m making, but recently stumbled across this fantastic idea over on the Food52 blog – chard stem hummusHelping my mom cook the other night I couldn’t help but secretly smile as I berated her for again ‘wasting’ the lovely chard stems and beet greens (we made a raw chard salad with fresh lemon and crispy onions, roasted beets, and prosciutto-wrapped halibut). I was taking all those lovelies home, and I had plans for them.

    Being me, of course, I couldn’t possibly follow the recipe exactly. I used:20150627_122124

    • 100 grams chopped chard stems
    • 100 grams chopped beet stems
    • 2oz (1/4 cup) tahini
    • 2oz (1/4 cup) olive oil
    • 2 tbs. fresh lime juice
    • 4 cloves garlic

    First, I washed and chopped the stems, and threw them in a pot of about 4 cups boiling water, to which I also added a tablespoon of salt and half cup vinegar (doing this adds a bit of flavor and improves the texture of the greens for blending). While boiling, I smashed and peeled the garlic, and measured everything else into my blender. After 15 minutes, my stems were soft, and I strained them into the blender, adding about a tablespoon of the liquid to pull in more flavor. I blended it until not-exactly-smooth to yield the comedically pink condiment you see at right.

    How’s it taste, you ask? It’s good. Really good.  Can-I-fit-my-whole-head-in-the-blender-to-lick-it-clean? good. And that’s just the ‘base’ version – I’ve played with is a bit, adding sumac, cayenne, cumin, and in one attempt flax seeds, all of which can dramatically change the flavor to fit whatever dish you’re pairing with the hummus.

    Enjoy!

    – MAW

  • 18May

    Congratulations to Dimitri Moshovitis of Cava Mezze who won 3 awards (Best in Show, People’s Choice, and Best Latin) at the DC Lamb Jam last night! His dish was a lamb shoulder half smoke with mustard tzatziki on a brioche bun. It was fun being a judge at this event!

    -JAY

  • 17May
    img_20150515_181435516_hdr

    Wonderful French Master Butcher, Marc Pauvert from Spring House Farm in Lovettsville, VA Working on a Whole Lamb!

    Last chance to buy tickets for tonight for DC’s Lamb Jam.

    -JAY

  • 16May

    Wonderful food industry people who create extremely tasty products:

    -JAY

     

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