• 09Feb

    While on our honeymoon a couple of years ago, my wife and I tried out an amazing restaurant in central Florida.  We don’t usually go for the lavish tasting menus, but just that once, it was a fantastic (nine-course!) experience.  One of my wife’s first selections was a butternut squash soup, and as I perused the vegetables at the grocery store on my way home, I decided to bring back a bit of that magic.

    (Pro tip:  when you try out a tasting menu, be careful with the wine pairings!  At this restaurant, they wouldn’t take our plates until we were done with both the food and the wine since they didn’t want to rush us.  This rapidly turned into my wife switching our wineglasses and insisting that I catch up…)

    The butternut squash is a rather phallic gourd – and I know you think I’m kidding, but seriously, check Google Images!  Peeling and chopping the narrow portion is easy enough; it’s only when you slice into the bulbous end that you reveal the pumpkin-like core that needs to be scooped out.  The flesh is a rather bright orange when ripe and it takes a decent amount of knife work to get to chopped, usable squash, but this recipe gets easier once you get past that step.

    Roasting the squash yields tender, flavorful flesh, and after roasting, it’s a few short steps to a nice, pureed soup.  You can achieve the same end with any number of other vegetables – I tried out a roasted carrot and cumin soup last week, for one example – and the squash’s sweetness goes a long way towards a flavorful dinner.  Since it’s so similar to the pumpkin, I thought some cinnamon would go well with it, but nutmeg would be nice, too.  Finish the soup with some fresh herbs and saltines and you’ve got a gourmet meal on your hands.  I’m not sure that it was quite as good as on our honeymoon, but the price was definitely right!

    Roasted Butternut Squash Soup

    Ingredients

    2 large butternut squash

    1 stick cinnamon, ground

    6 tbsp unsalted butter

    2 yellow onions, chopped

    12 fresh sage leaves, chopped

    6 cups chicken broth

    Olive oil

    Salt

    Preheat the oven to 425 degrees.  Peel and chop the squash into a rough dice – getting an even chop isn’t too important here as long as the pieces are basically similar, so don’t be too obsessive – and scoop the seeds out of the bulbous section.  Toss the chunks with a few tablespoons of olive oil, season generously with kosher salt and add the cinnamon.  (If you don’t have a cinnamon stick, a teaspoon ground is probably enough).  Spread the chunks out evenly on a pan and roast until tender, 35-40 minutes.

    Melt the butter over low heat in a large pot.  Add the onions, toss to coat, and allow to soften for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally.  (If the onions brown, your heat is set too high).  Add half the chopped sage toward the end of the onions’ cooking time.  Add the chicken broth and roasted squash chunks to the pot.  Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to medium-low and simmer for 5-10 minutes.

    Puree the soup in batches using a blender (or an immersion blender if you’re that well equipped).  Check the seasoning, then return to the pot and hold on low heat until you’re ready to serve.  Garnish the bowls with the remaining chopped sage.

    Enjoy!

    -HML

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  • 11Jan

    Pic Courtesy of staceysnacksonline.com.

    Five Best Spirits for Desserts

    There’s something strangely satisfying about incorporating booze into your cooking, isn’t there? The sheer knowledge alone that there is beer or wine in your dish seems to almost make the utensils jump off the table and into your hands. Not only that, when you are talking about desserts, the combination is so tempting. It’s the course where the non-drinking parent manages to squeeze in some sorely needed hooch. The best part is that each one of the following spirits works as a great tipple right after.

    Brandy
    Candy and brandy make you dandy. So what could be dandier than a brandy dessert? One of the characteristics that seems to make good brandy a perfect fit for the last course is its flavorful, aged quality. The fruity floral life of “burned wine” can yield another layer of flavor.

    Try Cherries Jubilee with a little Hennessy. I think you’ll find the brandied form of this fruit its truest and most delicious.

    Grand Marnier
    I’m cheating a little bit here since Grand Marnier is actually based off Cognac (ergo, brandy). What makes this liqueur very unique is that it is made with bitter orange essence which leaves that distinct flavor profile. Douse your dessert with “Gran Ma,” light it on fire, and watch the blue flames dance over all over such delicate dishes.

    Have a taste of the Grand Marnier Soufflé. It’s an airy confection that goes a long way with this liqueur. Or, maybe make a Crêpe Suzette.

    Bourbon
    Bourbon has extracted character from charred wood barrels. The flavors elicited from the barrel often renders the spirit with cinnamon, vanilla, and caramel notes – perfect flavors for desserts. Moreover, because nearly every “bourbon” whiskey is made with anywhere from 51-80% corn, it can often have a sweeter and thicker quality.

    I don’t know if anyone can be disappointed with a Derby Pie; particularly, there’s some good ole Kentucky Bourbon Whiskey from Maker’s Mark Distillery.

    Pernod
    Where there’s candy, there’s licorice. And while licorice doesn’t derive its flavor from pastis or absinthe, a distinct anise flavor in both is undeniable. In fact, one of my favorite associations with a well made Sazerac is the candy-ish quality that accompanies the spicy, nutty rye whiskey flavor.

    Like ice cream? Add a dabble of Pernod into that custard for a Star Anise Ice Cream. Like toppings? Make a Pernod whip cream!

    Amaretto
    Most people don’t know that Amaretto is distilled from either an apricot or almond pit base. The result is a nutty liqueur and since almonds are already a topping of choice for many sweets, this liqueur is a perfect fit for a wide variety of desserts.

    “Leave the gun. Take the cannoli.” Next time TNT is running that Godfather trilogy marathon, whip up some of these with a little Amaretto in them.

    -By Guest Writer & Alcohol Writer/Bartender Anthony of Done Like Dundee Gone Like Ghandi.

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  • 27Aug

    Pedon's GlutenFree Pancake Mix

    The packaging is simple, and the directions are easy.  Like any recipe with wet and dry ingredients: in one bowl, whisk an egg, then whisk in a cup of milk.  In another bowl, empty the entire packet of Pedon’s dry pancake mix then slowly incorporate your liquid into the dry mix with the whisk. Flex your whisking muscles to ensure a smooth batter and a couple minutes later you’re ready cook it stove-top.

    The aroma while it’s cooking was a big tease, because it took a few minutes before the top dried and I could turn it over.  Check out the gorgeous, even coloring once I flipped it.

    Smooth batterPancake Perfection
    The flavor of the finished product was similar to what I expected a pancake might be, and the texture was very good. No, it doesn’t taste exactly like a wheat-flour pancake but I didn’t mind. Salt content was perfect, and the option of adding sugar to the batter isn’t necessary; instead, pour some quality maple syrup on top and enjoy. Pedon’s got a winner: they’re in the same league as Pamela’s pancake mix which is the gluten-free gold standard in our household.

    After offering a taste to my family, I polished off the entire batch. Win.

    –Mark Feghali (MFF)

    Disclaimer:  I know something to this effect is stated in our “About” section, but (as sometimes happens), we received freebies.  That said,  our words are our own.

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  • 03Aug
    Merquen Flakes

    Merquén Flakes

    A week ago, I met up with JAY and he gave me a bag full of spice blends and rubs to try out.  The majority of the bag’s contents were from the Fancy Food Show.  I began to smell everything once I got home, but the first item up for review was the merquén, which was obtained by JAY at a Fancy Food Shoe-related Chilean event .  Since I had no idea what it was, other than dried and smoked chiles, I did my research.  The chile from which the spice is derived is called the cacho de cabro, or goat’s horn.  An indigenous tribe, the Mapuche, traditionally use merquén in many dishes.  The chiles are smoked, dried, crushed, and mixed with coriander, cumin and salt.  It sounded delicious.

    I have to be honest.  When I made the recipe for dip (included in the spice bag), I was underwhelmed at first.  Essentially, the dip is merquén, cream cheese, garlic purée, and cream.  I was expecting something unique and exciting, especially after what I had heard and read about the spice blend.  As it turns out, the packets of merquén only contained the chile flakes.  A few years ago, chipotle seasonings made a splash in the world of foodies; my dip tasted as though I had mixed chipotle flakes into cream cheese.  The smoky, hot flavor was present without the accompanying coriander and cumin.  Once I added them, the dip was magnificent.  I began with a ¼ teaspoon of each, and increased the amount in increments until I had a satisfactory amount.  For each teaspoon of merquén flakes, I added ½ teaspoon of kosher salt, ½ teaspoon of ground cumin, and 1 teaspoon of ground coriander.  I have no idea whether the proportions I used are congruent with the actual spice blend, but I thought it tasted incredible.

    Merquen-Rubbed Grilled Meat Selection

    Merquén-Rubbed Grilled Meat Selection

    After whipping up another batch of merquén, I fired up my grill.  While the charcoal was doing its thing, I rubbed the blend onto a couple chicken tenders, a tiny piece of steak and a thin pork cutlet.  The seasoning’s fragrance made me wish I had some of the dip left.  I restrained myself from making a second bowl of dip by watching the charcoal turn gray.  After retrieving my meat selections from the grill, I admired them briefly and then tucked in.  Personally, I loved the pork cutlet best, but honestly each piece was very good.  I saved a chicken tender for the next day, and it was equally amazing.  For the record, I enjoyed my merquén-rubbed meats with cheesy mashed potatoes.  I thought about adding the seasoning to them as well, but decided I should restrict it to one part of the meal at a time.

    I encourage everyone to find the spice blend in a store or buy it online and try it soon.  Whether you use it as a rub, an oil infusion for slices of baguette, or making it your secret ingredient, merquén is worth the effort to find it.

    -TKW

    Disclaimer:  I know something to this effect is stated in our “About” section, but (as sometimes happens), we received freebies.  That said, our words are our own.

  • 23Jul

    Biagio Fine Chocolate‘s next Sample Day will be Saturday, August 20, from 3pm-6pm.

    Complimentary – no R.S.V.P. needed. What is Sample Day? It is a monthly event that has been wildly successful with our customers. We will have over a dozen varieties of some of the world’s best chocolate available for tasting. Sample day is held in Studio B, the tasting room/gallery behind Biagio Fine Chocolate.

    Biagio Fine Chocolate and Studio B are located at:

    1904 18th St. NW, Washington, DC 20009

  • 17Jul

    Note from Editor (JAY):

    Please welcome Tiffany (TKW), our new spice writer.  Shes has written a bunch of articles so far; we are meeting up this week, so that I can give her a bunch of spices (many of which are from the Fancy Food Show) to review.
    ——————————————————

    Pink pepperberries fit into a category of spices that are constantly mistaken for something they are not. For instance, what many people get when they think they are buying cinnamon is actually ground cassia… but that’s another article. Pepperberries are not related to any of the varieties of peppercorns (Piper nigrum), though their appearance would have you think otherwise. The berries are the dried fruits of a tree native to South America (Schinus molle). They have a delicate heat with a beautiful floral and citrusy flavor. Additionally, the tiny berries are gorgeous in the jar or on the plate.

    I enjoy exploring new territory when it comes to spices. Cooking with the pepperberries was no exception. I discovered that I’d prefer to have a separate pepper mill for the spice instead of a mortar and pestle. The berries have a distinct taste from black peppercorns. Plus, the convenience of a mill is something I’m used to. The husks flake off and in liquids, they tend to float. Don’t let their errant ways deter you from using the spice. The color remains vibrant throughout cooking, and makes a striking presentation when the ground berries are sprinkled over any dish. I found five dishes that taste amazing after the addition of pink pepperberries:

    1. Tropical Fruit Salad — the floral notes accent mango and papaya well and the slight heat will be unexpected. Use about 1 teaspoon of the ground berries for every four servings. For presentation, top each individual serving with a little shredded mint and a turn or two of the pepperberry mill.

    2. Crusted Chicken — I recommend using basil or lemon to accent the flavor, perhaps in a sauce. Use 1 ½ teaspoons of the spice (coarsely ground) mixed in with your favorite breadcrumbs, and coat your chicken. Pan-fry for a little color and finish in the oven. The pink color looks fantastic on the plate, particularly with green sides like steamed broccoli or sauteed spinach.

    3. Garlic Mashed Potatoes — again the color of the spice really makes a difference. The flavor adds a little kick, and the garlic brings out the citrus flavor of the berries. Use about ½ teaspoon when serving four, and grind a little extra on top.

    4. Goat Cheese Spread — try mixing fresh oregano, ½ teaspoon of ground pink pepperberries, and chopped chives with your favorite brand of goat cheese. To make a pretty presentation, shape the spread into a rectangle and used cracked pepperberries to make an artistic S-curve on top.

    5. Tuna Salad Sandwich — I think this will be my new favorite dish for awhile. I used about 1 tablespoon of pepperberries, coarsely ground. The sandwich looked great and tasted even better.

    -TKW

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  • 16Jul
    Eggplants, by jayluker

    Eggplants, by Flickr user jayluker

    A few years ago I developed (OK, maybe that’s a stretch: I made up) my Tandoori eggplant bites as an easy go-to party dish. Unable to either leave well enough alone or to keep doing things in an easy way, recently I decided to update the dish. By which I mean: “I didn’t have the right ingredients handy and was too lazy to go to the store, but at least planned long enough in advance to make something complicated.”

    This time around, I used small regular purple eggplants (sliced into rounds and purged*), for starters, and I marinated and grilled them instead of a rub and roast.

    For the marinade, I used:

    • 12 tsp tandoori spice
    • 2 tsp Vegeta
    • 2 tbs olive oil
    • 1 tbs lemon juice
    • 1 tsp red wine vinegar
    • 2 tsp mirin

    I marinated the sliced eggplant about 6 hours, and then grilled. They turned out to be really tasty, and people at the party ate them up. In fact, I even used mine, with some hot sauce on top, as a last-minute veggie burger, which worked very well, and might be another variation to try (on purpose)!

    *Funny story: when I had sliced all my eggplants, I realized that I was out of table salt, so I purged them with sea salt I ground into powder with my coffee grinder and used a colander as a sieve. This, it turns out, is a thing that can be done. I don’t recommend it.

    – MAW

  • 14Jul

    A week or so ago, I decided to spend my morning in Old Town Alexandria. I began with breakfast at Buzz Bakery on Slater’s Lane. My husband and I have been in love with their cupcakes for almost a year but hadn’t really tried any of their other food or drinks.

    When I walked in, the café had more people seated inside than I expected for 9 am on a Sunday morning. Luckily, only a handful of people were mulling their decisions in front of me. I made my request of a large mocha, and two scones: one was a caramelized onion & manchego, while the other contained ham, cheddar & scallions. My mocha was good, but ordinary. The scones, however, were heavenly. Both scones amazed me with their lack of a dry or crumbly texture. The caramelized onions really did taste a little sweet, and the manchego was not overpowering. The ham and cheddar matched well in the other scone, and the scallions accented both flavors. In hindsight, I probably would have enjoyed them even more if I had requested that they be heated. After finishing my breakfast, I left Buzz Bakery for the heart of Old Town.

    I found a miraculously close parking space to my next destination, and decided it was an omen. The Spice & Tea Exchange on King Street is easy to miss because they don’t have a street-facing entrance. Rather, the door faces another shop right across the walkway from it. When you walk in, a large waist-high display shows off some of the gift ideas for spices and seasonings. All the spices, salts, herbs, peppers, and teas are in large glass jars on shelves against the wall. Little signs posted everywhere encourage the customers to open the jars to smell the products. I followed the signs and began to smell my way around the store.

    One interesting note: this shop also sells flavored sugars, and various powders. You can not only find vanilla or cinnamon sugar, since they also carry habanero, sweet onion, and espresso sugars. Their powder selection is equally diverse, containing wasabi, beer, and pumpkin. A kind young lady, Cory, helped me purchase some of the bulk spices. All in all, I came away with grains of paradise, mesquite powder, cardamom seeds, pink pepperberries, berry bouquet herbal tea, purple sticky rice, and bamboo scented rice. Ask any of the employees if you have questions, as they seem to be very knowledgeable about their products.

    On a recommendation from Cory concerning coconut-flavored desserts, I went down a couple blocks and crossed King Street to Pop’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream Company. The temperature had been climbing, and I reached the shop shortly before noon.

    It was packed with people, inside and out, and about 15 people were waiting to be served. I joined the end of the line and began to examine the menu, which was written in multi-colored chalk. A few flavors had been wiped off the board, and it appeared that coconut was one of them. One of the flavors was called “Cleveland Brownie Sundae” and I was curious to find out what made it different than other brownie sundaes. I also noted that Pop’s offered Brown Cows, as well as Coke Floats. A large Banana Split was advertised as serving four people, with a chalk illustration depicting the decadent dessert.

    When my turn finally arrived, I asked the young man behind the counter about the dessert. He smiled and said that the flavor was supposed to taste just like eating a sundae, complete with chunks of brownie. I had a scoop of the aforementioned ice cream and a scoop of the yellow cake flavor. I waited until I was out the door and walking back toward my car before taking a bite. The buttery goodness of the yellow cake ice cream was astounding in its simplicity and tastiness. In contrast, the Cleveland Brownie Sundae flavor seemed like nothing special at all (though that didn’t stop me from eating it). I plan to try more of Pop’s ice creams in the future, but I suspect I’ll always end up getting some of their yellow cake flavor.

    -TWK

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  • 11Jul

    Pic courtesy of Wikipedia.org.

    That jar in the back of your spice rack, which likely has a peeling label and 99% of the spice untouched, is probably ground cardamom. Whether in the form of green or brown pods, loose seeds, or the pungent powder, cardamom is a spice that tends to perplex home cooks. It has a clean, crisp scent with earthy notes, and the taste is a distinctive floral and almost lemony essence that cuts through other flavors without overpowering them. While the preceding statement might sound contradictory, fans of the spice appreciate the versatility, which allows cardamom to be used in many dishes. Generally speaking, whole seed pods lend themselves toward flavoring dishes and liquids as they can be easily removed. The ground spice possesses a remarkable ability to blend with a diverse and lengthy list of ingredients, yet the flavor and scent do not hide. Instead, it enhances sweet and savory dishes while making them uniquely its own.

    I became interested in cardamom a few years ago, after drinking chai for the first time. I was amazed by the complex scent and taste. I couldn’t identify everything I was experiencing in the drink, so I turned to Google for help. I had assumed that lemon and mint were part of the ingredient list — what I was detecting turned out to be cardamom. Don’t let my words mislead you; go to a spice store and smell cardamom for yourself. You’ll immediately understand the inimitable complexity contained in the pods. I tried making my own chai at home and discovered two things: 1) The flavor changes each time, and 2) There’s no wrong way to make chai. Here are some dishes that you should try with cardamom the next time you make them:

    1. Pork Chops with Orange Glaze — if you’re a fan of pork chops (and really, who isn’t?), you’ll appreciate adding a teaspoon of the ground spice to the seasonings for this dish. It adds just enough of an earthy quality to balance the more powerful citrus notes. This tip comes courtesy of Christine, my hairdresser at Frizzles.

    2. Apple Pie — you’ll never go back to cinnamon alone, or some generic “apple pie spice” again. Cut the cinnamon used by half and mix a ½ teaspoon of ground cardamom in with the sugar and/or flour (depending on your recipe) and toss with the apple pieces. Your pie will taste exotic and delicious, without being overrun by any single flavor.

    3. Lamb Kabobs — used as part of a rub, cardamom can enhance the earthy flavor of the meat, while adding lemony-floral notes that would go well with an accompanying cilantro-cumin yogurt sauce. Try using a teaspoon of the ground spice with the other ingredients and adjust up or down, depending on your palate.

    4. Molasses Cookies — though they already have a complex flavor, adding a ½ teaspoon of ground to the mix pushes these chewy cookies over the edge. I find this variation to be particularly delicious with a glass of iced tea on a hot day.

    5. Swedish Meatballs — using cardamom is a great way to provide a striking flavor to this time-tested dish. Use a combination of ground lamb, beef, and pork for the tastiest results and add ½ teaspoon to the meat mixture. The extra note the spice provides will have your family or friends trying to guess your secret ingredient.

    -Tiffany Kajer Wright (TKW)

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  • 09Jul

    Spring and early summer bring many delights, but one of my absolute favorites is fava beans. The other week at the farmers market, I came upon a gorgeous basket of the bright, fuzzy-looking pods, and I knew my mission: foule*. Needless to say, I didn’t want to wait all night for it to simmer, and in honor of the warm sunny day, I wanted a cooler, brighter dish. And that’s what I did!

    From Flickr User luvjnx

    Fava Beans, by luvjnx

    (For anyone who’s never used fresh fava beans before, let me warn you: they are a pain to prepare: not only must you remove them from the pods, but inside they have a waxy shell that, while not inedible, is not delicious. So, first things first.

    Remove your beans from their pods, and place them in a pot of cold water. Bring to a soft boil for about four minutes, then drain and shock them in a bowl of ice water. When they are cool, slit each waxy shell with your paring knife, and squeeze the bean out. Easy, but you’re going to want lots of the beans, so it takes a while.)

    So, back to my own special foule. I used:

    – About 2 pints favas in the pod (yielding about 4 cups shelled beans)
    – 3 garlic scrapes, chopped
    – 1/2 medium red onion
    – 5 tablespoons olive oil
    – 1/2 cup lemon juice
    – 1 teaspoon ground cumin
    – 2 teaspoons paprika
    – 1 tablespoon coriander seed, fresh ground
    – 1 tsp ground sumac berries

    I caramelized the onion and half of the chopped scrapes, and put all the other spices (except the sumac), oil, and lemon juice into a pot (a wok might work better, I think), adding my beans. I brought that to a boil, and then reduced the heat to low for about 8 minutes. I used a very little salt and pepper to season, and poured it into a bowl.

    I tossed in the sumac, and topped it with caramelized onion.

    I then devoured it on a fresh baguette.

    All told, there is so little traditional about this foule that it’s probably not a foule at all…but it’s mine, I think it’s really delicious, and I’m going to make it again soon.

    * Yeah, I know Wikipedia spells it with no ‘e’ – I like the e. Deal.

    -MAW

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