Over the weekend I attended a birthday party at Bistro Bis, and by pure chance, it turned out to be the first day of their new summer menu. Located within the Hotel George, the décor is very “nouveau” hotel (aka slightly tacky). The main dining room, with a view of the kitchen, seemed a much nicer place to eat. My booth, however, was roomier than a New Jersey diner, and raised-off the floor at a comfortable height. Now I have heard great things about this restaurant – a sleeper among the D.C. culinary scene!

We started with the famed steak tartar. Much has been written about this dish and we ordered with anticipation. I will admit I was a tartar virgin. It was tasty – mayonnaise and capers over-whelmed the palate, but in a nice, comforting way. The mussels, something for which I am more of a Tri-Delt than virgin, were ok. I realize there is a whisper mussel campaign going on in this city – they make everyone’s “Top 5” list at this restaurant or another – but I can’t jump on the wagon. They’re tasty, oui, but the tartar was definitely the Wonderboy and the mussels an Invisible Girl.

For dinner, a tuna dish that our waiter suggested was a nicoise delight, with olives aplenty. My dear sir, I would have to disagree. But perhaps, to be fair, this dish didn’t stand a chance as I had read the menu before arriving and was drooling for the sweetbreads. Alas, new menu, no sweetbreads. The offal train has left the station and is gaining speed – why oh why would you remove it from the menu! In the end, however, the tuna was well-cooked and quite yummy. Combined with some flat noodles and a very complimentary sauce. I was lucky enough to also taste the duck – always heaven – and the lamb. Portions were hearty and everyone was satisfied.

For dessert, petit fours! Even the woman on Intervention last night who hadn’t eaten solid food in 15 years would probably break the rules for a little cake. These cakes weren’t the traditional fondant laden sweet cubes. (By the way, fondant is ruining our world, but that’s another topic altogether!) These mini cookies, jellies, and cakes were the perfect finale to a very solid meal. Does the bistro live up to the hype? It does. The price? Not so sure. Vidalia’s little red-headed French step-brother deserves a moment outside of the shadow of its much beloved bigger sister. I’m not convinced this a go-to restaurant in a city filled with opportunity, but the offer of sweetbreads may be able to lure me back.

AEK