• 26Nov

    I’d been perusing an old copy of Saveur in a waiting room at the doctor’s a while back and remembered seeing a recipe for a Taiwanese squash dish. This came to mind after finding a fresh kabocha at the farmers market the other week, and after some Googling,

    Kabocha02 by miltedflower

    Kabocha02 by miltedflower

    I located their recipe for Chao Nan Gua. Intrigued yet again, I set to work.

    Disorganized as usual, I didn’t actually have fresh ginger or white sugar on hand, and so I used what I had, and futzed with proportions both intentionally and by spilling some and making it up on the fly.

    I used:

    About 1.5 tbs. canola oil
    1 1/2 tsp. ground ginger (not the powder kind, the kind from a
    jar…fresh would be better)
    2 tsp. brown sugar
    A few pinches sea salt
    1/2 tsp. yuzu kosho*
    1 small kabocha, peeled and cubed
    Just under 1/2 cup water with a splash of rice vinegar

    I put the squash in the microwave for a couple minutes to soften it enough for my not-great knife to cut, and while it cooked I set out my mise-en-place. In the process I spilled the water twice, knocked over my jar of salt, and burned myself with spattering pre-heated oil. This before drinks, even! These steps I don’t recommend. I do recommend that when it’s softened a bit, you cut up the squash.

    So, as you may have guessed, I had preheated the oil over a high flame, and when it was hot added the ginger and yuzu kosho to toast a bit, then the squash, which I tossed in the spiced hot oil.

    Then I added the sugar and salt and tossed the squash around some more. After a few seconds to let a glaze form, I added the water-vinegar mix and covered the lot with a lid. On reduced heat, I let the mixture braise for about 10 minutes, stirring every now and again.

    The result was bloody delicious: sweet, nutty, and spicy!

    * A note on yuzu kosho: this is the best reason to visit your local Japanese market I can think of (besides MSG-enhanced mayo). A paste of yuzu (a citrus somewhere between lime and Meyer lemon) and chili, it is a fantastic condiment I now put on way too many things.

    -MAW

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  • 24Oct

    It’s fall, and that means it’s time again for me to cook pumpkins. Because, as we all know, I love the orange beasties. Plus, it’s just before Halloween, and this is a great party recipe: it’s delicious, easy to make in quantity, and goes well with both booze and candy. I was inspired by a Thai pumpkin soup (Tom Jieufak, I think) I had recently, and so the primary flavors in this dish are Thai, but I modified it for my current veganism (more on that in a later series), and since this was made on the fly the proportions are a bit random and you should adjust to your own tastes. Also, you might like it less spicy than I do, so adjust accordingly. Here’s what I did:

    From: http://www.flickr.com/photos/calliope/4988191034/

    Photo by Muffet

    Ingredients:
    o 4″ shoot of lemon grass, sliced
    o 2 tsp fresh ginger
    o Health handful of fresh basil leaves
    o 1 green bell pepper, chopped
    o Juice of 1 lime
    o 4 oz water
    o 1 tbs peanut oil
    o 2 garlic cloves, chopped
    o 5 shallots, thinly sliced
    o Half a vidalia onion, thinly sliced
    o 1 tsp crushed dried red chili flakes
    o 3 Thai chillies, chopped
    o 22 oz vegetable stock
    o A handful of green beans, chopped
    o 2 tbs soy sauce
    o 2 tbs vegan Worcestershire sauce (or fish sauce)
    o Cubed peeled meat of 2 small pie pumpkins
    o 1.5 t sugar
    o 1.5 tsp fresh ground white pepper
    o 2 tbs organic creamy peanut butter
    o 3 tsp curry powder (I used Madras, but if you have Thai it might be better)
    o 8 oz coconut milk
    o Splash of rice vinegar
    o Sriracha
    o Turmeric
    o 2 tsp arrowroot powder

    To facilitate cutting up the pumpkin, I microwaved them for about 4 minutes each…while that’s happening, chop everything else. Puree the ginger, 1 garlic clove, lemongrass, green pepper, lime juice, curry powder and water a blender, and drain off excess liquid. In a large saucepan (I actually used a Dutch oven) over high heat, fry the chilies, the other garlic clove, and shallots over high heat till they get a little crispy, then add the onion and let them get a bit translucent.

    Now add your pumpkin, beans, soy/Worcestershire sauce, all but a couple ounces of the stock, and the puree, reducing heat to medium. Stir for about a minute, and stir in the peanut butter, sugar, and white pepper, then simmer. While that’s happening, dissolve your arrowroot in the remaining stock. When the pumpkin is very nearly done, crank up the heat to high, add the coconut milk, and bring to a rolling boil for a minute or two. Drop the heat back to medium-low, and adjust flavor with Sriracha, vinegar, and turmeric. Finally, stir in your arrowroot mixture to thicken (you could probably also just cook it longer to reduce, but I am lazy).

    I served this over French bread, but rice noodles would be good too.

    -MAW

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