• 03Aug

    imagesSeattle….food tour…Seattle Bites Food Tour…FABULOUS…

    Let’s take a tour of Pike Place Market for $30 (per person) and get healthy sized tasty bites from various famous stands.  This is a MUST do in Seattle!  And the highlights were…

    1) Crepe de France…a Nutella/banana/almond crepe with whipped creme.

    2) I Love New York Deli…pastrami and pickels shipped in from New York daily?!  A knish that’s a REAL knish!?  All from a stand that’s about the size of my bathroom?!  I do love New York, even in Seattle.

    3) Pike Place Chowder…supposedly the best New England clam chowder in the U.S.  Yeah, right, this isn’t New England!  But wait, I think it might be the best chowder.  And they aren’t allowed to compete in Rhode Island any more because they just kept winning.

    4) Maximilien…an “eh” cheese tarte.  But a full glass of wine and beautiful view.  They say it’s the most romantic restaurant in the market – kissing and such.

    5) Uli’s Famous Sausage…good sausage, darn good sausage.

    6) Pure Fish Food Market…not the one where they throw the fish, but pretty darn amazing.  Smoked salmon.  Ah, the smoked salmon.  Even my fish-hating fellow traveler gobbled it all up.

    7) La Buona Tavola…pretentious “small-batch” wine seller.  Filled with passionate winers, the kind that say they don’t drink desert wine because it’s not real wine.  They knew their stuff and garnered some instant respect.  And the wine was wonderful.

    And the tour completed.  3 hours, tons of food, and an inside into the market.  Here’s an interesting fact – look up why there are no Japanese sellers in the market.  Google it – trust me – it’s interesting.

    As a side note, we also grabbed some delicious pastry at Piroshki Piroshki – doughy filled yumminess.  And no, we didn’t go to the first Starbucks.  And yes, I did go to the first Sur La Table.  And no, we didn’t drink Seattle’s Best Coffee – it’s owned by Starbucks.  P.S. the FABULOUS flower bouquets are $5 after 5:00 because they want to get rid of them.  But you’ll learn that on the tour.  You can find them through www.tripadvisor.com – do it when you go…or else!

    Up next…PORTLAND!

    AEK

  • 22Jun

    seattle-towerHaving already gorged myself on delicacies like fois gras and bahn mi, I realized that my time in Seattle would not be complete without a visit to at least one of Famous Chef Tom Douglas’ restaurants.  So, for my final day there (sans conferencing) I wandered back down towards the market and decided to try brunch at Etta’s (WARNING: mildly obnoxious flash site!).

    I was greeted and seated quickly, at a nice booth looking out the window or at the bar.  And there, I waited (luckily, it was also Free Comic Book Day, so on my way down I’d picked up a selection to read).  Finally, the waitress brought me some much-needed coffee, which unfortunately turned out to be a cup of the aforementioned Starbucks.

    A while later, I ordered, choosing the salmon-cake Eggs Benedict. This was, sadly, a mistake. The hollandaise was a bit bland, the cakes heavy and a touch dry.  Plus, I really have to ask: why the hell would you make a salmon CAKE with all that fabulous fresh fish available, just across the street?? I admit my fault in ordering it, but I was curious (and hopeful).  Le sigh.  Lesson probably never to be learned.

    Willing to give the Iron Chef winner a second chance, I decided to eat my final dinner in Seattle at Palace Kitchen, conveniently located across the street from where I stayed.  I got there fairly late again, and rather than wait for a table, I opted to sit at the very pretty bar, overlooking the entirely open kitchen and with a good view of the Sounders game, which was on TV.  The place feels much bigger than it is, and has a nice, wood-fire-like lighting scheme.  I really love getting to watch the kitchen work.

    The bartender was very nice (also: hot), and immediately introduced me to the bar-snack bowl of hickory smoked almonds.  These were bloody fantastic, but apparently a stand-in for the usual pistachios.  I can’t imagine how those could be better.  I drank some local cream ale whose name I don’t remember but which was delicious.  For my dinner, I had two appetizers: a small order of plin, and sliced raw geoduck with pickled vegetables.

    Plin are a Piedmontese pasta – basically tube-shaped ravioli. Filled with roast pork and chard, these were fabulous. The pork was sweet and nutty, perfectly complimented by Parmesan over top.  The chard hinted at itself but I couldn’t really taste it as much as I’d have liked – a touch more might have been nice. The geoduck was also quite good: it’s most similar, for me, to octopus, but with a smoother texture and a more floral and almost nutty flavor.  The black pepper vinaigrette was perfect on the acidity scale, but I’m not sure that black pepper wasn’t too much.  I might have preferred white.

    All in all, Palace Kitchen was quite good.  Some of the details were less than perfect for me, but on the whole I had a great time and left happy.  Had I more time in Seattle, I’d go back for a proper dinner, and maybe even be a regular at the bar.  It’s a bit pricey (the small plate of plin was $14), but not terribly so.  And I could eat those almonds off the bartender’s abs all night.

     

    -MAW

  • 29May

    Pike Place MarketLast time, my stomach was to be found digesting crêpes and coffee, bahn mi and spring rolls, and piles of raw fish.  It was happy, and thus wanted more.

    As tasty as Bambuza was, I knew there were greater things to be had.  My subsequent lunches were eaten at the Pike Place Market, a food-Valhalla if I’ve ever visited one.   I spent a good long while just wandering around, feasting my eyes on fresh-from-the-river/ocean fish, piles of gorgeous mostly-local produce, and stall after stall of food sellers and cookers and eaters.  I ate too, of course.  Many of the vendors had samples of fresh produce, breads, oils, vinegars, jams and more – I took part, and often bought a small helping more to snack on as I walked.

    Across from the market proper are the shop-stalls, from bakeries to specialty cheese and beyond.  I stopped by a few…  I had a hot, sweet and savory humbow (steamed pork barbecue buns) from the Mee Sum Pastry Shop – basically, a dim sum cart in market-stall form.  At the Russian bakery Piroshky Piroshky, I gorged on all sorts of pastry-enclosed goodness, and also non-enclosed (“gorged” may be too strong…I ate one there, took a bunch to go for breakfasts, etc.).  The beef & onion, potato mushroom & onion, and apple cinnamon roll were my favorites.

    The one disappointment at Pike Place Market was the Original Starbuck’s.  Coffee at this ‘Bucks is just as overpriced and under-delicious as at its every clone across the universe.  Oh well!  Come to think of it…I had a lot of at-best-mediocre coffee on this trip.  Why is Seattle so famous for coffee?

    Having spent the afternoon at Pike Place, my second night found me again searching for a quick bite en route to a beer, but a strange sign above Quinn’s Pub ensured that the two quickly combined.  The sign said: “Fois Gras Night – proceeds benefit [some charity].”  I immediately stepped inside, squeezing into a bar seat between a raucous group of it-girls and a few guys all too happy for a neutral buffer.  Our former editrix here was Swiss – maybe it rubbed off?

    I learned from the friendly bartender that Fois Gras night was only technically for charity: sales were to benefit some group which protests fois gras: counter-protest by aggressive irony or something like that…  So I had the fois gras mousse with brioche, and some local special draught beer that was all hoppy and delicious.  It was as delightful as I’d hoped, though not the “light” dinner I’d planned.  The music was a mixed selection of hardcore punk and 80’s pop, which also worked for me.

    -MAW

  • 26May

    Seattle skylineI recently spent a long weekend in that other Washington – Seattle to be precise.  I was basically too disorganized to plan anything other than the main event of my stay – going to a conference – so I improvised, which is how I like it anyhow.  The results were really impressive, and I have to say I had a great time getting a lot fatter!   I ate so much, in fact, that I’m going to split my exploits into a few separate posts.

    I made the usual unfortunate decision to stay in inexpensive lodging convenient to the convention center, but this time at least I was in the right part of town, food-wise.  The next morning I found, happily situated across the street from my mhotel, Le Petit Café & Crêparie (2229 5th Ave, Seattle, WA 98121), luring me in with the aroma of coffee, crêpes, and the offer of free wifi.

    Le Petit Café was being operated by a cook, who looked like she was just too polite to be swearing as profusely – I assume in French – as she looked like she wanted to be, and one other guy who worked the counter and as waiter. Service was slow, but not unpleasantly – and I felt right at home sipping my first delicious coffee, fighting with Mandriva to access the internet (others seemed to be happily surfing away), and perusing the crêpe selection.  I chose a savory option – spinach, mushrooms, and egg.  This came out along with my second cup of coffee: rich, with yummy wilted greens and mushrooms, wrapped in a perfect whole-wheat crêpe.

    The first day of the conference, Big Pharma provided donuts which were free and delicious, but soon I needed real food.  Hunting for a quick, convenient lunch place near the venue, and I soon noticed Bambuza, a Vietnamese bistro and bahn mi counter, just across the street.  I chose to dine at a table instead of the counter (I had abstracts to peruse, after all!), and was escorted to a perfectly nice corner by the window, looking out onto the street.  Service was very polite, if a little disorganized.

    I started off with the Vegetarian Salad Rolls – moist tubes of tofu, basil and veggies with a tasty (but maybe too sweet) peanut sauce for dipping.  I would have liked a bit more heat on these (the chili kind, not the fire kind), but they were really very tasty, and I could see myself just having two orders as a perfectly nice meal.

    After that, I moved on to the bahn mi, which are simply called Vietnamese Sandwiches on the menu. I choose the Lemongrass Beef version, because it sounded good.  The beef was flavorful, and the veggies fresh and crisp.  Sadly, the overall effect was a touch mild for me – the mayo was bland, and cast a drabness over the sandwich as a whole.  All told: millions of orders of magnitude better than any Subway or Quiznos fare, but no Song Que.

    Late my first night, I wanted to go see what nightlife Seattle had to offer, but needed a late dinner on my way.  Walking from my room in Belltown towards Capitol Hill, I remembered my past trips to the West Coast, and how good the sushi is out there.  Looking for a lighter bite, this seemed a good goal as I came upon Oasis Café (1024 E Pike St).  They were just closing, but the proprietress and proprietor were more than happy for me to join their other last customer at the bar. I was treated to an assortment of bloody delicious, ultra-fresh fish, charming conversation, and the usual green tea. The stand-out was easily the last surprise course: I’d ordered maguro, but my hosts insisted I could do better, and brought out a plate of white tuna nigiri. Wow, what an upgrade!  This is the kind of place I’d hit regularly, if I was in the area.

    -MAW

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